28th April- Cuba

28th April- Havana!

We got up late and headed straight out. The lady at our hotel told us that the banks are in a mess in Cuba, as is the currency & the best rates were in back street, black market places. We went with her to change some cash. The money is ridiculous. The currency rate of Cuban Pesos is so low, you almost need a wheelbarrow to collect it. We were given a large carrier bag full of notes & neither of us really knew what to do in this situation. We were told by our hotelier that we should have brought US dollars, as this is worth more & has the best rates. We had been specifically told by travel agents, and by email from the Cuban Embassy that dollars are illegal in Cuba. They also said that the use of bank cards linked to American Banks can't be done. This wasn't true either. We separated the huge wads of notes we now had in the local currency, and headed back out again, wondering if we had done the right thing at all & wishing we had brought more cash with us. We felt like millionaires for about 5 minutes, but soon realised that pesos are virtually worthless. Every few hundred yards we were asked if we had money to change. The Cuban people appear desperate. Most businesses advertise prices in dollars. It made no sense to us at all. In fact, it feels like the country is suffering far more than ever. The 60 year trade embargo has always bit hard in Cuba, with ordinary working people being hit hardest ( it's the same the world over), but this felt different. A little more desperate. A lot harder for the people. In truth, we both felt a bit sad.

 I bought Graeme a book at Christmas, Pocket precincts- Havana, by Claire Boobyer, which is an up to date guide for tourists in Havana. It recommended El Dandy for breakfast, so we headed straight there, as both ravenous by now. It didn't disappoint. The atmosphere was relaxed and cool, the reggae music was good and the food was amazing. The Ranch style eggs came served on a thin tortilla with a rich tomato sauce, black beans, lots of herbs and a spicy salsa. Utterly delicious. The coffee was good too, and much needed after last night's carry on at the airport. It got me back on my feet and ready to explore. Graeme had a lemonade, which was actually just a mojito without the booze. 

We wandered through the narrow streets, marvelling at the architecture and wondered how some of the buildings were still standing. Havana has a vibe about it that feels relaxed, yet busy - bordering on chaotic, all at the same time. The people are loud, everyone wants to talk. We were asked to change currency, buy cigars, if we wanted a taxi about a million times. Wierdly, a lot asked if we were American -I am used to being mistaken for German or Scandinavian, but didn't think there would be many American visitors to Cuba; although Graeme does look like a cross between a red neck and a Hell's Angel!. It made us giggle when people shouted " bar bedo" - bearded one.